The Beauty and Rich History of Red Dye from Plants

For centuries, humans have utilized the bounties of nature to create dyes for fabrics, textiles, and other materials. Among the diverse spectrum of colors available, red stands out as a particularly captivating and significant hue. Throughout history, numerous cultures have developed methods for extracting red dye from various plant sources, resulting in a wide range of captivating colors and shades.

One of the most well-known plants used for red dye is madder (Rubia tinctorum) and related species in the Rubia family. Madder is native to temperate zones around the world and has been utilized since prehistoric times to produce a rich red dye known as "rose madder." Its historical importance is evident, as madder residues were discovered on linen in the tomb of Tutankhamun, the renowned ancient Egyptian pharaoh. References by Pliny the Elder, a Roman author and naturalist, also mention the presence of madder near Rome.

Madder cultivation became economically significant in Europe, particularly in Holland and France, where it was extensively grown to dye the red coats of military uniforms. However, the madder market experienced a collapse in 1869 with the introduction of synthetic alizarin dye, which could replicate a similar shade of red at a lower cost.

Another plant source of red dye is alkanet, also known as dyer's bugloss (Alkanna tinctoria). This plant yields a deep red pigment that has traditionally been used to color cosmetics such as lipsticks. Asafoetida, a spice commonly used in Indian cuisine, can also produce a reddish-brown dye.

Henna (Lawsonia inermis), a flowering plant, produces a red-orange pigment that is frequently employed for dyeing hair and skin. Lichens, a type of fungus that grows on trees and rocks, can also yield red dyes. In medieval times, the British lichen Roccella tinctoria, known as "orchil," was a significant source of red dye.

Alongside madder, other members of the Rubia family have been utilized as sources of red dye. Munjeet, or Indian madder (Rubia cordifolia), grows in the Himalayas and other mountainous regions of Asia and Japan. Munjeet played a crucial role in the Asian cotton industry as a dye and continues to be used by craft dyers in Nepal.

Turkey red, a remarkably strong and colorfast red dye for cotton, was obtained from madder roots through a complex and multi-step process. This process involved various ingredients such as sumac, oak galls, calf's blood, sheep's dung, oil, soda, alum, and a solution of tin. Turkey red originated in India and later spread to Turkey. Greek workers familiar with the production techniques were brought to France in 1747, and soon after, Dutch and English spies discovered the secret. A modified version of Turkey red began to be produced in Manchester by 1784, and by the 1820s, roller-printed dress cottons with a Turkey red ground became fashionable in England.

Indigenous cultures in the Americas also developed their own methods for obtaining red dye from plants. Puccoon or bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) was a popular red dye among Southeastern Native American basketweavers, while Choctaw basketweavers additionally utilized sumac for red dye. Coushatta artists from Texas and Louisiana used the water oak (Quercus nigra L.) to produce red dyes.

Navajo weavers employed various plant sources to create delicate shades of rose and salmon-pink in their rugs. Fermented prickly pear cactus fruit, rainwater, and red soil were all utilized to achieve